Day 17 - Lochboisfale / Oban (18 kms) - "Back on the Mainland" !

What we couldn't accomplish yesterday we set about to do this morning cycling the18 remaining kms to our ferry departure point at Lochboisdale.

The fact that our b&bs roof was moving most of the night told us that the wind was still strong. By mid morning though it had backed off a little giving us some hope that a) we could cycle in a forward direction b) our ferry would not be cancelled because of rough seas - apparently a real threat !

First though we had to negotiate our way through an even greater problem i.e. how we were going to eat our way through a massive home cooked breakfast that comprised 4 sausages as well as bacon, beans, eggs , tomatoes and mushrooms ! Wash this down with cereal, fruit juice, tea and toast and there was a real danger that we may not even make it out the front door !

We said a grateful goodbye to our hosts with Murdo proudly pointing out his near lifetime supply of locally farmed peat while giving me a personal demo of his peat farming tool.

We cycled back towards where we'd taken dinner the night before giving thought to requesting that desert we believed was owing to us although how we'd eat it in the rain was beyond me.

I made a mental note at this point to next time check for prevailing wind direction when planning a cycle trip as 99.9 % of cyclists that we'd passed on the Outer Hebrides were going in the opposite direction. ! It was though with some sort of sadistic pleasure that I noted that this morning those cyclists were doing it much tougher than us !

What a delight it was to cycle the last 6-7 kms into Lochboisdale ! Who cared if it was still cold and overcast and threatening to rain at any moment - the fact that the wind was behind us made us deliriously happy !

After arranging our ferry tickets we had tea in what has to be the smallest tea shop in the UK - it was that tiny that if one person moved in the shop everyone else had to as well !

We were relieved (or at least i was):to see our ferry roll into the Lochboisdale Harbour. For Monika though it was another 5 hours of nausea as we pitched our way across the waters to the Scottish mainland and the bustling port of Oban

It took us a few minutes in the rain to find our b&b after disembarking at Oban in fact we cycled straight past it as on the outside it looked like a derelict building - yep & on the inside we confirmed it was in fact a derelict building !. Still it was cheap as I continually reminded myself while carrying our bikes up 2 steep level of stairs !

We quickly washed to head straight back out hoping to catch up with fellow adventurer Ruthy M and her partner Steve (I'd cycled twice previously with Ruth in Peru 2011 & the Indian Himalayas in 2013)

Unfortunately not all went to plan with the ferry running late and the European Cup final on TV meaning the pubs were packed causing us to postpone our meet till the morning.

In the interim it was some Rick Stein recommended fish & chips (recommended back in 2002l to help us make it through the night !

Day 16 - Somewhere in Uist (55 kms) - " We surrender" !

Where did it all go wrong ? Maybe it was my choice of dry bike lube in Aberdeen anticipating sunshine or maybe it was not listening to the climate change gurus when May / June are the 2 best weather months in Scotland or maybe just slightly possibly it was listening to Monika when given the option to tour she chose Scotland and its scenery rather than the mild warm sunny climate of France ... I wonder !

We decided on a late breakfast after yesterday's heroics and timed it perfectly to head out into the pouring rain to start the day. After about 15 rain soaking kms we decided to try and rest in one of the few bus shelters we'd seen and congratulated ourselves on our decision when within 15 odd minutes the rain had passed through bringing periods of blue sky.

Our joy was short lived as although the rain had stopped the direction we were now heading was straight into the feared Outer Hebredian wind. On an Island where recorded wind temperatures exceed 100 mph 45 mph winds may not sound so severe that is unless you try and cycle directly into them !

For 6 relentless hours this is what we did, it was without a doubt some of the toughest cycling conditions I've ever cycled in.

I'd told Monika that cycling on Uist would be good as it was relatively flat and this bit was true as i was rarely moving out of the middle ring but the wind succeeded in dragging us down to walking pace and at times was strong enough to bring us to a complete stop.

Small comfort now that the sun was out revealing the lovely scenery of this island a low lying connection of lochs and swamps giving it a picturesque view.

Hardest though was cycling on the single lane roads with cars waiting patiently at passing bays ahead forcing you to double your effort so as not to delay them.

With a total absence of trees it was impossible to get any form of relief and even lunch was taken in the car park of a supermarket sheltering by a picket fence.

We only had 70 kms to cover but by late afternoon with only 20 kms to go we know knew we weren't going to make our destination which at the rate we were going was still some 4 hours away !

After much cursing and with our marriage on the line I made the call to stop at the next b&b we saw - that in itself a big ask as wed passed few houses in last couple of hours .

Eventually I spied one by a road turn off. I turned sideways to wait for Monika behind me and quickly disappeared into the ditch with the wind blowing me and the bike over

Recovering the little dignity I had left i signalled to Monika that she should pull in and negotiate with the b&b owner - all I can say is that knees on the ground with outstretched arms pleading is a damned good bargaining ploy !

The owners were lovely enough to take us in as well as run us down to the nearby pub some 15 mins away where we mealed and thanked ourselves for not having cycled on as the wind was now not only stronger but the rain was once again bucketing down !

We didn't even care too much that the pub service was lousy bringing us out our main meal only 5 mins before our b&b owners were due to come back to pick us up - the next table were offered free deserts because of the slow service which we would have also gladly accepted if they could have posted them to us en route !

Back at our b&b we were thankful to have survived the day going to bed dreaming about those amazing winds - all i can about the day is that I'm glad I'm not a lip reader as I could see Monika's mouth going all day but in the wind thankfully couldn't hear a damned word !

Day 15 - Lochmaddy (115 kms) - " On our last legs" !

It was 8.30 p.m. and the rain was teeming down. We'd been on the go for nearly 12 hours when we rounded a bend to finally see a sign indicating that we'd reached Lochmaddy our destination for the evening. Our exhilaration though was short lived as while the Scots appeared to have an abundance of lighthouse builders over the centuries, bridge builders were in short supply as our entrance to the township still required a circuitous 4 km cycle around a huge loch and Monika's legs were failing her fast !!

The day had started well enough surprisingly in sunshine in Stornaway where we peeled off one of our 14 layers, said goodbye to our friendly b&b host Louie the "Muso" and stocked up at Tescos before departing thinking about putting on sunscreen for the first time on tour before we realized we had little or no exposed skin showing because of the icy winds !

With Monika navigating we departed the city limits without drama entering the barren spaces of the Outer Hebrides. We made our way in favorable conditions over the next few hours  to the foothills of the Scaladales climbing steeply to a high plateau. Not only did the going get tough but the reasonable weather had now disappeared to be replaced by the customary gloom and drizzle.

A great descent off the plateau took us into Taerbet and now driving rain where we decided to take lunch at the local pub of soup and toasted sandwiches giving our wet weather gear a chance to recover.

With a ferry to make in Leverburgh though we couldn't hang around departing straight up a 15%climb that nearly bought our lunches straight back up. While the gradient backed off the climbing didn't as we moved across a weird looking moonscape type terrain.

Finally some relief when a downhill took us to the amazing white sand beach of Luskentyre voted as the best beach in the UK and considered scenically as one of the top ten beaches in the world.

The appeal of Luskentyre is that it's white sands run for miles and its waters are a Mediterranean coloured jade green with all of this against a tropical looking mountain backdrop - this was so not UK !

Snapping (photos) away we worked our way around the stunning coastline now picking up that dreaded Outer Hebrides headwind that made our last 5 kms into Leverburgh treally tough.

We did however have time on our side so were able to sit back in a pier side cafe taking in a hot cuppa while waiting for our 6.30 p m. Ferry

Our crossing was uneventful dropping us off in Erenskay at 7.30 p m. just in time for the rain once more. Already fatigued we set about he last 16 kms into Lochmaddy on lonely single roads  where we seemed to be the only living (just!) things around

Finally after circumnavigating the never ending loch of Lochmaddy we collapsed into our beautiful b&b at Rushlee House just shy of 9.00p.m. to be well received by the lovely b&b owners - heaters on we hung up our gear to dry, put on a cuppa and not long after hit the sack feeling the effects of our long 115 km day !

Day 14 - Ullapool / Stornaway (65 kms) - " I do like eating by the seaside" !

Well it may not have been our worst accommodation on tour but it wasn't far from it as our lumpy bed,  claustrophobic room and next doors constantly running toilet helped to promote a fitful nights sleep !

We were on a mission today to get to Ullapool preferably before our Other Hebrides ferry left at 5.30p.m. With our War room briefing conducted we both set off at 9.00a.m.albeit initially in opposite directions with Monika determined not to miss the ferry and myself wanting to spend 20 minutes having a quick look around Lochinver before leaving.

On the road we headed back the same last 20 kms we'd traveled yesterday although this time with a welcome tail wind behind us ! I started to get worried when after 25 km's i still hadn't caught site of Monika. Worried obviously about Monika's welfare but also about the fact that i had no idea where she hid the life insurance papers at home in the event that i needed to cash in ...

As it turned out I need not have worried as I finally caught up with her. She'd either greatly improved her cycling ability or greatly improved her lieing as she said she'd been sheltering from the rain for 20 + minutes the whole amount of the head start that I'd given her !

Yes it was showery and gloomy all over again although this time adding some drama to the landscape with clouds covering the mountain peaks and the gloom giving a sense of occasion to the wildly situated 16th C castle of Ardvreck on Loch Assynt - oh for central heating back in those days !

We stopped just after the half mark at Elphin for tea and cake at the foot of a seriously steep climb. It helped in recharging our batteries as well as adding another few cms to our collective girths which was not helpful when our next turn took us back into the fierce embrace of a northerly headwind !

We battled our way at a slow enough pace to easily introduce ourselves to every passing sheep. Finally though after a couple of steep climbs we took a beautiful descent into Ullapool arriving despite Monika's panic, some 3 hours prior to our ferrys departure.

There was time to play the tourist role grabbing some award winning Ullapool fish and chips while sitting on a sea side bench in the sun trying to ignore the sub zero wind chill conditions and those crazy enough to be eating ice cream in it !

Nevertheless Ullapool did have a nice feel to it and provided great theatre as our superbly equipped Cal Mac ferry equipped with restaurants, TVs, and observation lounges exited the harbour and surrounding islands.

Arrival Stornaway was uncomplicated aside from Monika's knee problems, restless leg syndrome, hot flushes and sea caused nausea !

Tomorrow to Monika's joy we crack the ton for the first time on tour as we move our way southwards through the beautiful outer Hebrides.

Day 13 - Lochinver (68 kms) - " It's Scotland & it's wet" !

There's something cathartic about standing in a glacial scarred wilderness in an ice cold wind getting soaked to your skin. It frees the mind to consider life's imponderables such as how could the Scots have possibly ever invented golf when its never dry enough to play and how could anyone think that Mel Gibson was being fashionable in running across this landscape in a dress without undies !

We left Kinklochbervie to the sounds of the local cuckoo birds which seemed pretty appropriate considering the ominous weather forecast for the day.

It was a slow grind climbing past numerous lochs and through barren landscapes. In between showers we finally made the hamlet of Kylesku scenically located at the head of two lochs .

While trying to dry out we had the scumptious smoked Salmon and Haddock fish pie and of course a pot of hot tea large enough to allow us to shelter from another passing downpour !

The climb straight after lunch took us up a 10% gradient and it didn't seem to get much easier over the next 10 kms going up a number of switchbacks before finally descending to the black waters of Loch Assynt.

As luck would have it our change of direction heading towards Lochinver took us now straight into the face of a strong northerly making progress slow and causing Monika's already strained knees to start playing up again

As broody and gloomy as the landscape was this is the same landscape that has inspired writers and painters over the years. This is what Scotland is all about.

After nearly 2 hours of battling the northerly we entered the picturesque (well it would be if the sun was out) village of Lochinver. We sought out our B&B to dry out our gear and assess our battle scars for the day

Tomorrow we've somehow got to get around or over the numerous peaks between here and Ullapool so we catch our late afternoon ferry to the outer Hebrides.

Day 12 - Kinklochbervie (80 kms) - "The Gods smile favorably at last " !

After yesterday's tough "gig" i awoke to find a registered letter (remember them) sitting on my bed signed by Monika indicating that a divorce was likely to be on the cards if such a day was repeated - what really worried me though was that it was co signed by the lower half of my own body (dont ask how) - i made a mental note to placate Monika while convening an "all body parts" meeting to sort out their relevant rievances !

Daring to peak out of our 2nd storey window I noted that while the sun was out revealing a beautiful set of 1,000 meter peaks with smatterings of snow, the wind also appeared to be on the go although how strong and in what direction we wouldn't know until we got on the bikes.

A home cooked breakfast, some bike maintenance and we were on our way across the causeway in Tongue on a steepish but gradual 5 km climb. The wind while noticeable was thankfully no where near as strong as yesterday (yes we were going forward!) so the cycling was almost enjoyable as we passed through the nearby high plateau before descending for an undulating 15 km circuit around beautiful Loch Eribol.

The beauty of cycle touring is that you're often engaged in conversation about where you've come from or where you're going to usually with some descriptor about the weather you're experiencing. What I've learnt is how many people that have stayed in Melbourne as well as how many that recognise the brand of runners that I'm wearing the old favorites KT 26 ers well suited to cycling !

The cycling on the car side of Loch Eriboll was sensational with gentle gradients and the wind at our backs. It didn't take long before we reached the wild looking outpost of Durness with its magical looking white sand beaches. With the sun still out we raided a nearby store and had lunch almost in the form of a picnic overlooking this beautiful area.

With talks of changing weather we were quickly back on the bikes heading now inland towards distant mountains. The single track road required some good judgrement as to who would get to the passing bays first - being stuck midway with a loaded truck or camper van coming head on was not advisable.

The route contained one significant 3 km climb with the surroundings almost as wild as it gets and definitely too cold for kilts ! Monika took it easy on this section with her knee beginning to play up.

Once reaching the summit we had an amazing series of single track downhill all the way to the turn off to Kinklochbervie.

From here it was a testing 3 km ride to our accommodation a converted school house overlooking Loch Inchgard where we collectively breathed a sigh of relief after yesterdays effort.

Day 11 - Tongue (92 kms) - "Oh the inhumanity of it all"!

They say that even through the eye of a needle Scottish scenery looks pretty "speccy" and today was a chance to prove that theory as through fogged up and rain splattered glasses we took in a fogged up and rain splattered landscape where the grey colored buildings were perfectly camoflauged !

This day was tough as it gets and had Monika thinking she'd signed up for the "Tour D'Hell" by days end !

We knew our sunny weather had left us as we departed our lovely hosts at Dunnet Head. Mick the owner, in a dry Lancashire accent, said to us we departed " son the forecast is for rain and then some heavy stuff, but you should at least have the wind helping you" !.

Mick was part right as the rain started as soon as we jumped on the bikes and the cold winds while not directly behind us were at least not in our faces ... yet !

After 25 kms we passed the decommissioned nuclear power station at Dunreay and gave passing thought to asking the caretaking staff to power up so we could stand round the fire to get warm !

The rain by this time was soaking through our clothes and had me thinking I was experiencing some form of hypothermic delirium after I swore I saw the same group of 4 cyclists pass us that I'd seen an hour before - the fact that one of them was wearing shorts really made me think I was hallucinating !

With the hills to come we pulled in for a much needed break giving us a chance to spill water all over the pub floor and at the same time take on board a lifesaving bowl of sweet potato, parsnip and carrot soup - delicious !

Putting our gear back on after lunch was akin to rolling around in your bed after you'd just wet it (.. woops too much information) , damned uncomfortable.

We'd left the pub smiling talking to a pair of cyclists heading in the opposite direction they suggesting they would now have a tail wind - we thought we knew better until we hopped on our bikes and found that we were in fact now riding into a ferocious headwind and it was to stay like that for 45 bloody more Kms !

With the icy winds winds, rain and the never ending hills on our 2nd leg i decided to stay just far enough in front of Monika a) so i could encourage her  b ) so I could avoid being skewered by her bike multi tool !

Km after painstaking km went by with our speed barely topping 5 km /hr ! With our hostel accommodation only open till 8pm we were in real danger of not making it !

At the slow speed I was able to examine my surroundings in minute detail - single lane roads cutting through wild bracken and heather filled landscape with brooding Mtns (some with snow) behind them .. oh and did I tell you about the damned wind !

To cut a long story short, after 9 hours in the saddle and just short of15,000 curses from Monika, we made Tongue just shy of 7pm with the wind still as strong as it had been  since lunch time !

Our accommodation at Tongue in the beautifully situated youth hostel was ideal in that the warm rooms allowed us to put our wet gear out to dry and the shop sold frozen meal dishes - ideal as both of us had barely enough energy to eat let alone ride the 2 kms back to the towns pub !